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Mimi Blouse Redux

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For this blouse I revisited a pattern I have made twice before, loved, but still had not gotten quite right. Sadly, this one is not the perfect Mimi blouse either.

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Of course, I am also being exceptionally picky here! This blouse is still charming, reasonably comfortable and eminently wearable. It is made from a heavier cotton lawn, so the blouse is a bit more crisp than my earlier versions of this pattern. For the buttons, I lucked out and found some beautiful vintage glass buttons at Stitch Sew Shop in Alexandria, VA. The magenta glass of the buttons matches the flowers in the fabric, and the iridescent finish is even a pale turquoise. If there is a better button for this project, I can’t imagine it!

The problem continues to be fit. You may recall (though I’m not sure why you would, it’s been ages!) that after my last attempt at this blouse, I altered the sleeve pattern piece in order to add fullness to the sleeve hem while retaining the overlapping folds. What a sensible idea! Make alterations while the fit problems and their best solution are fresh in your mind!

Of course, I have since lost the altered pattern piece, so I improvised.

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That’s right, I just cut straight across the bit where the sleeve pattern cuts back in for the double fold. When sewing it up, I simply left out the overlapping folds, which creates a very slightly belled sleeve hem. For my arms at least, this is ideal.

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Yet because nothing is ever simple, releasing the tension on the sleeve hem revealed that the depth of the armhole is just a bit too short on me. Sigh. I was able to cheat on the seam when I sewed in the sleeves, but I will need to make the armhole deeper next time I make this blouse. I am going to get this pattern right, darnit! I like the collar too much to admit defeat.

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My ongoing obsession with comfortable sleeves which allow the full range of arm movement has inspired me to take a more scientific approach to evaluating this problem area. Thus the Arm Mobility Index was born. What follows is my (admittedly ridiculous) attempt to quantify the ease and comfort of arm movement in any given garment, ranked from worst to best. This Index will enable a more consistent assessment of just how suitable a garment is for climbing trees or retrieving books from high shelves.

Arm Mobility Index

0/10  –  Literal and/or figurative straightjacket. Not a good option for climbing trees or retrieving items from high shelves.

1/10  –  Try as you might, you cannot even get your arms into these sleeves properly. No, just no.

2 /10  –  These sleeves give you T-Rex arms. The T-Rex is extinct. Don’t let these sleeves drive you to extinction!

3/10  –  You need to dislocate your shoulder(s) to get in and out of this garment. Fashion isn’t worth this.

4/10  –  You always end up regretting your decision to wear this shirt/jacket/dress because of how the sleeves fit. Life is too short for regrets.

5/10  –  These sleeves are uncomfortable but wearable. They are fine if you keep your arms by your sides or stick with small arm movements, but they tug uncomfortably if you need to raise your arms above shoulder height or need to drive a long commute.

6/10  –  These sleeves are only mildly annoying. You can still move your arms pretty freely, but you have to fight against the sleeves for larger arm movements.

7/10  –  These sleeves don’t stop you from doing anything but do pull slightly when you move your arms.

8/10  –  The presence of sleeves is at times noticeable.

9/10  –  These are nice, roomy sleeves that allow unrestrained arm movement. You literally never think about the fact you are wearing sleeves (which is clearly an unusual state for me).

10/10  –  No sleeves. Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best.

I would place this blouse project at somewhere between a 6/10 or a 7/10. Perfectly wearable, mildly annoying when trying to reach into cupboards over your head.

 

 

Right. I’m so sorry. Here, have a cat.

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About autumnyarn

I am a graduate student who sews and knits to satisfy the creative urge, makes clothing to keep the creativity useful, and writes about it to de-stress.

2 responses »

  1. Looks fantastic, love the fabric (and the cat) but I’m with you on this pattern; something funky going on with those sleeves/ depth of the armhole. I made it in an awful stiff viscous with the pleat in the sleeve seam and it is a 5/10 on your scale. Definitely no reaching up for me! Maybe with more depth of the armhole it wouldn’t do the annoying thing over the bust either?

    Reply
  2. Haha, excellent index (should become standard) and adorable cat. Not quiiite as adorable as my ginger lad, obv. (Sorry, puss, no offence). I’m feel sure Ikatbag has done an in depth study of size/shape of armhole (is this armscye?? I’ve never been quite sure) and ease of movement. Can’t remember if it’d be relevant…..

    Reply

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